Square Grouper – Review

The Square Grouper is the companion restaurant to The Joint which we visited on my birthday. My future in-laws and my parents were in town for the long weekend, so we have been eating out a lot. Fine with me, I have so many places in the lower keys I love and so many new ones to try now that I live here. The Square Grouper has been a family favorite for years. We stumbled in once in mid-August when most of the tourists were gone and the restaurant was still packed (mostly with locals).

The first thing you need to know is that a square grouper is a reference to the drug-smuggling history of the Keys. A massive amount of marijuana used to be smuggled by boat trough the keys and then shipped up to the mainland via trucks. If the coast guard was heading your way and you had bales of mary jane, you’d simply dump them overboard where they became known as “square groupers.”

Key Lime Pasta

The second thing you need to know is that this amazing establishment is owned by a woman which pleases me immensely since so few restaurants are. She definitely knows what she is doing and her Yelp reviews reflect that.

One of the first things I tasted (and fell in love with) was their sweet potato fries. It is perhaps strange to start out a review of a fish place with a side dish, but that is how good these things are. These are by far the best I’ve ever had anywhere. If you are like me and prefer your sweet potatoes savory, then these are the fries for you. They are perfectly fried with a hint of seasoning that perfectly balances out the sweetness of the potato. I dreamt of these fries for years when I lived in D.C. and never found their equal.

Lamb Ribs w/ Crostini

The second dish I remember loving and mooning over afterwards is their key lime pasta. I did not get a bite of it this time because it is a dinner dish and we were there for lunch, but I wanted it so badly! Again, strange to review a pasta dish before their fish, but you won’t be sorry if you order this (and you can add fish of course). The pasta is perfectly cooked bow-tie with this light, creamy, with the perfect touch of lime that sends this dish over the top.

Fish tacos w/ sweet potato fries

On this trip I ordered the lamb with crostini (I swear I’m getting to the fish soon) because I can rarely pass up the chance to eat lamb since I have it so rarely. I was not disappointed! It was two cuts of ribs each packed with a rosemary spice mixture and falling off the bone delicious. I was delighted to walk past their on-premises herb garden where they grow many of their flavors (they also fish for their own catch!). The lamb dish was a small plate, but I found it a perfectly good amount (especially since I also had the sweet potato fries). The crostini had a good flavor combo (green olives and goat cheese), but could have benefited from some moisture.

Salad w/ Scallops

My mother ordered fish tacos and my future mother-in-law ordered a salad with scallops. I tasted both, of course, and they were declared wonderfully tasty by the whole table. The dads ordered fish sandwiches, one grouper and one the catch of the day which was mangrove snapper. My review of their fish dishes joins many others in saying that they know how to prepare fish. The scallops were cooked perfectly, the fried fish breading is light and crisp, the flavors are incomparable. Grouper, of course, makes frequent appearances, but they serve many types of fish and always have a catch of the day option.

To cap off our experience, we ordered a scoop of salted caramel ice cream which was topped with whipped cream and mint. It had a subtle salt/caramel flavor that was nice and light after the big meal. Check this place out the next time you’re near Cudjoe Key right off of US-1.

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